Rugsėjo 15, 2017
Londono Mados Savaitė: dėmesys Brexit, klimato kaitai ir ligotiems modeliams
Caroline Rush ir Justine Simons.

Gal ir sunku suprasti visą tą pamišimą dėl skudurų, rankinių, batų, bet kartais ir man pačiai dėl jų apsisuka galva. Šį savaitgalį Londone išvysite daugiau stileivų nei rudens lapų: Londono Madų Savaitė (London Fashion Week 2017) kaip visuomet vyks penkias dienas, su renginiais nuo ryto iki vakaro, dizaineriais, madų industrijos asais, žvaigždėmis, mados blogerių tuntais, fotografų būriais.

Šiais metais veiksmas persikelia į centrinio Londono The Store Studios patalpas, netoli Temple metro stoties ir upės Temzės. Patikėkite, net jei neturite pakvietimų į LFW, bet taip norėtumėte bent akies krašteliu išvysti mados pasaulio grietinėlę – pasisukiokite aplinkui ir prisižiūrėsite tokių įdomybių, kad raibs akys: Londono gatvės – geriausias podiumas. O Londono Mados Savaitė – galimybė kristi į akį fotografams, dizaineriams, save parodyti ir į kitus pažiūrėti. Žinoma, grožio industrijos galingiesiems nieko nereikia įrodyti ir dažnai jie tyliai įeina pro galines duris, įsisukę į juodas skraistes ir akis slėpdami po tamsiais stiklais. Bet blogeriai knibžda kaip skruzdėliukai – didesni ir mažesni. Jie ruošia outfitus šiai progai kaip tikriausiai žvaigždės ruošia raudono kilimo suknias Oskarų ceremonijai. Ir kai fotografai tarsi skalikai apspinta jaunutę blogerę, išlaužusią na tokį super cool stiliuką, prašydami jos pasisukti į kairę, dešinę, pažiūrėti į kamerą, nusukti akis į šoną – ji vykdo kiekvieną jų prašymą, nes tam juk ji ir puošėsi. Jau tikrai ne ‘dėl savęs’, o dėl tų blyksčių. Vogue.

Į Londono Madų Savaitę nusipirkti bilietų nepavyks. Į 86 mados podiumų pasirodymus ir daugiau nei 40 renginių, skirtų garsiems ir pradedantiesiems talentams galite patekti tik su pakvietimais – turite būti mados žurnalistas, blogeris, vlogeris, parduotuvės atstovas arba žvaigždė. Žodžiu, atstovauti mados industrijai. Gauti pakvietimą apžiūrėti Designer Showrooms – nesudėtinga, tereikia užpildyti formą internetu prieš kelias savaites ir dažniausiai pavyksta. Tačiau kvietimus į garsiausių kolekcijų pristatymus, podiumus, vakarėlius pavyks gauti tik jei esate VIP.

Kad ir koks paviršutiniškas kartais atrodo mados pasaulis, reikia sutikti, kad mada gali vykdyti ir kilnesnę misiją nei aprengti įnoringą gražuolę. Kaip rašoma LFW pristatyme, šiais metais dėmesys ypatingai atkreipiamas į klimato kaitą, ekologiją, tvarą, žmonių įvairovę, kultūrinius skirtumus ir pasirinkimo teisę, modelių sveikatą, amatininkus, smulkius gamintojus bei verslininkus ir Brexit. Šio straipsnio apačioje pateiksiu LFW atidarymo kalbas: generalinės Britų mados tarybos direktorės Caroline Rush bei Londono mero patarėjos kultūrai Justine Simons. Norintiems labiau gilintis į mados pasaulį – tikrai bus įdomu.

Londono Mados Savaitė vyks iki rugsėjo 19 d. 2017. Daugiau info rasite tinklapyje www.londonfashionweek.co.uk.

Londono Mados Savaitės atidarymo kalbos konspektas:

Caroline Rush CBE, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council
On behalf of the British fashion industry I welcome you to the 66th London Fashion Week. There are three things I’d like to share as we kick start this 5 day celebration of British creative excellence in fashion design:
-        The Importance of LFW and British Fashion
-        Why we are supporting The SWITCH to GREEN ENERGY CAMPAIGN
-        Key concerns around BREXIT
London Fashion Week’s global reputation for creativity, innovation and business is what has seen both the week and British businesses go from strength to strength over the past 10 years. Our industry is worth £28bn to the British economy and employs 880,000 people.  Over the next 5 days we welcome designers, media, retailers, stylists, photographers, casting directors and many more creative, talented people from 70 different countries to London this week.
While the core of the week is British business, brands such as Burberry, pioneers such as JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, those that dress first ladies and red carpets around the globe Erdem, Roksanda, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and the best emerging talent through NewGen Molly Goddard, Paula Knorr, Halpern, Richard Malone and Sadie Williams, let’s not forget this year’s BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winners Mother of Pearl and palmer//harding and the launch of our British Couture house Ralph and Russo’s first RTW show.
But what has dominated interviews to date has been the international nature of our week with Versus, Emporio Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, MM6 and Nicopanda showing; with Off-White, MuiMui, JD.com and Alessandro Michele from Gucci partnering with our brilliant media from established titles to experimental independent media, that in London we are famed for.  And for us, London being more international comes at a great time in the backdrop to the Brexit headlines.
Our industry, our businesses, our creatives, our talent are international, literally in citizenship, but also in outlook.  London is the most diverse, multicultural and open City in the world and we fiercely want to protect that reputation.  The Brexit agenda remains the same – TALENT – we need to welcome and support talent in the UK.  Our education system needs to support creativity and home grown talents, but the education agenda seems to not support this.  We need to support international talent to come to the UK and study here or we will become very parochial in our views and less diverse in our outlook.  We need to ensure that talent can travel here for events like London Fashion Week and support the work of the Creative Industries Federation in their work around Creative Visas. 
Our businesses are asking for Tariff Free access to the EU and frictionless borders as well as support of opportunities to build close cultural and economically beneficial partnerships with other countries.  As an industry we continue to prepare information, case studies and insight to inform Government; meanwhile championing that as an industry, we are as international in outlook and community as we were before the referendum last year.
What I have seen is that our industry is one that at times of challenge pulls together (and I thank all of those that have contributed to roundtables and sharing of information over the past 14 months). 
This unity we hope to also see as we work with Dame Vivienne Westwood to launch an industry wide Switch to Green Energy Campaign.  The ask is that designer businesses, retailers, publishers, communication partners, Switch to Green by 2020 and play a role in reducing Greenhouse Emissions.   Those already committed to Switch or who already have include Belstaff, Christopher Raeburn, E Tautz, Harvey Nichols, Kering, M&S, Selfridges, Stella McCartney, Teatum Jones & Vivienne Westwood demonstrating both SME and large enterprises are able to do so.  This is a call to action and we hope that you will all join us. Information is on our British Fashion Council website under Positive Fashion.
This Switch to Green is part of our Positive Fashion stream of work which looks at Best Practice & Sustainability, Local Manufacturing & Craftsmanship and Model Health & Diversity. I am delighted that Adwoa Aboah has signed up as an Ambassador for Positive Fashion to help us lead the charge on change and use fashion as a positive platform to inspire future generations.
I am also delighted to use this platform to thank Tania Fares, Co-founder and Co-chair of our BFC Fashion Trust, one of the BFC Charities that has raised £2.5m over 6 years which has enabled us to support the development and mentorship of designers and graduate trainees.  In recognition of Tania’s incredible fundraising efforts on behalf of the industry the BFC has made her an official Ambassador and invited her to join its industry Advisory Board.  
Which leads me nicely into my other thanks you. Thank you designers for all of your hard work and making this week the most vibrant, energising, creative fashion week each season, I have no doubt this season will be the same.  To all of our guests thank you for joining us, for our patrons, our sponsors, our Pillar Presidents for the pro bono work you undertake in leading forward streams of work in Education, Reputation, Digital & Innovation, Investment & Business.  
T
hank you to the BFC team for exceptional organisation, commitment and dedication in making LFW an incredible platform to showcase our great talents and to all of the teams that contribute to London’s success.  
I’ll leave you with one last stats: London’s luxury retail is booming and in 2018 it is forecast to become the no 1 luxury goods market in Europe which is great news for British and international luxury retailers with a footprint in this incredible city.
Let me now introduce you to the person who puts culture front and centre in our City’s and Mayoral’s agenda, our Deputy Mayor for Culture and the Creative Industries, Justine Simons.

Justine Simons, Deputy Mayor for Culture and the Creative Industries
It’s great to be here on behalf of the Mayor.
And congratulations on what is set to be a fabulous London Fashion Week.
So London is a great creative capital and fashion is absolutely at the heart of this.
We have all the important ingredients:
•             We have leading fashion colleges
•             Inspiring young designers
•             Powerful established brands
But we also have something else…
London is the most international city in the world: There are over 300 languages spoken here every day. And this diversity is central to our success as a global city. As well as the incredible economic contribution it makes (28 billion a year in fact). Fashion is also a powerful way for us to express ourselves.
As the great philosopher Paddington Bear once said:
“In London everyone is different and that means anyone can fit in”
But seriously, creativity is our DNA in London. And that’s why the mayor has made culture a top priority. And today we are here to celebrate the awe inspiring talent in our city. It is humbling to see the extraordinary collections unfold on the catwalks of LFW each season.
And today is also about the industry showing wider leadership in the fight against climate change with major players switching to green energy. And talking of energy – I wanted to also pay tribute to Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne continues to inspire us as an icon within the industry but also through her unfailing commitment to make the world a better place. So thank you Vivienne for your leadership and bold vision. We are delighted to support you with this important initiative. And finally on behalf of myself and the Mayor may I wish everyone a wonderful fashion week!

 
KEY INDUSTRY STATISTICS

London Fashion Week September 2017 will feature over 80 new and returning names hosting over 100 catwalk shows, presentations and events. There are 85 designers on the LFW Show Schedule this season, followed by 33 events happening around LFW. Over 150 designers: UK and international, emerging and established, ready-to-wear and accessories brands will feature in the Designer Showrooms. International press and buyers from over 70 countries will attend London Fashion Week at its home The Store Studios
 
Sales of clothing, fashion accessories and footwear grew by 17% in 2017(Mintel Sept 2017)
 
Online fashion sales in the UK reach £16.2 billion in 2017 (Mintel Sept 2017)
 
Online fashion accounts for 24% of total fashion spend (Mintel Sept 2017)
 
Womenswear value sales rose by 1.3% to £27.25 billion in 2016 and are predicted to rise to reach £28.77billion in 2021 (Mintel, 2017)
 
The UK’s £66 billion fashion industry accounts for 6% of UK’s market (Fashion United, 2017)
 
£9 billion - value of the web-based fashion and footwear market in the UK, it is predicted to grow to £11billion (Euromonitor, 2015)
 
48% of female young Millennials are interested in retailers using more eco-friendly fabrics (Mintel, 2017)
 
37% of women would like retailers to offer more season-less clothes; 35% more high-quality garments, 21% unique designs and 6% trend-led designs. (Mintel, 2017)
 
Chinese tourists collectively are the biggest spenders in the UK luxury fashion market, taking 23% closely followed by the Americans who take 7%. (Global Blue, 2017)
 
The sum parts of the British Fashion Industry contribute £28 billion to the UK economy, supporting 880,000 jobs. (Oxford Economics, 2014)
 
The UK is currently the 3rd largest Luxury goods market in Europe, it is forecast to be no.1 by 2018. Currently holding 15.8% ($17.6 billion) of the total luxury goods sales, this is projected to grow to 19.6% by 2018  (Visit London, 2017)
 
Apparel exports alone have risen 41% to £6.2bn in this five year period, up £1.8bn.
 
The European Union was the UK’s biggest export market for textiles and apparel in 2016 - accounting for 74% of UK exports. 
 
UK apparel and textile exports to the EU rose from £4.9m in 2012 to £6.7bn in 2016. Within the space of five years, this represents an increase of £1.8 billion or 36% 
 
Womenswear value sales rose by 1.3% to £27.25billion in 2016 and are predicted to rise to reach £28.77billion in 2021 (Mintel, 2017)
 
£27billion worth of womenswear (RTW) sales in the UK in 2015. This figure is predicted to grow 23% by 2020 to £32billion (Mintel, 2016)
 
£12.4billion spent on fashion online in the UK in 2015, up 16% from £10.7billion in 2014 (Mintel, 2015)
 
The UK’s £66 billion fashion industry accounts for 6% of UK’s market (Fashion United, 2017)

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